food & drink

Anyone for a tinny?

Where does the average wine drinker stand on the question of wine in cans? It's basically an age thing. The trade's objective is to get young people drinking wine regularly, and in order to achieve this, all the fuddy-duddy stuff about wine racks, cellars and corks has to go.

Cans were first used by the Ford Coppola winery in California in 2003, and sales have grown steadily. Lockdown has helped too. Rather like boxed wine, the advantages do not need spelling out: for outdoor drinking and fast chilling, an aluminium container beats glass and recycles more efficiently. Nor is any taste characteristic lost. For those traditionalists who won't even look at a can, it is worth remembering that without progress we would still be drinking out of goatskins lined with pine resin, as in the 1950s.

Finally Spain has its own canned wine, introduced remarkably enough by a young Berber lady of 33 with a US business school training. Sana Khouja worked for four years in a Priorato bodega and has selected a garnacha red and white from Cataluña to launch the range. Crowdfunding did the rest, and the products are in the stores.

As anyone who puts wine into cans rather than bottles will explain, there is no conflict between the two formats. It is a question of presenting a different method of packaging wine, often in situations where a bottled variety would not be appropriate. It is more a question of attitude than product, and no-one pretends that any wine other than young, fresh whites and rosados will be the most popular lines.