food & drink

It's in the can

Life as we have always known it is changing drastically. No business or trade has been unaffected by the Covid-19 crisis, and sectors of commerce of whatever category have to adapt.

But every cloud has its silver lining, and one part of the wine business is experiencing a bonanza: wine in cans.

In every country, from the USA and Canada, to Sweden and traditionalist France, there has been a significant increase in this form of packaging. The advantages of wine in cans are, like those of bag-in-box wine, so obvious as to be incontrovertible.

Price, convenience (ring-pull opener), quality and portability - fits into any pocket. Bulk storage and handling is easy and breakages zero. Recyclable and egalitarian, cans give little opportunity for considerations of vintages or grape blends.

Introduced by the Ford Coppola winery in California in 2003, sales of canned wine never slowed, and Forbes predicts a 30 per cent market share before long. It is odd (but not surprising to anyone who knows Spanish wine culture) that this method of packaging has practically no presence here.

Could it be that the sight of a group of young people sitting around drinking wine out of cans is so extraordinary that canned wine is to be ignored? Why does it not affront the Italians but apparently is just too off-the-wall for Spanish tastes?

After the harrowing battle that curtailed the future of bag-in-box sherry with a landmark legal ruling, perhaps someone will stand up soon in the cause of fino and manzanilla in cans.