...was giving me clues. It tells me what the waves are like. If I face ahead and the wave passes in front of me, I'm north. If I turn left and the wave passes me on the right, I'm in the west. The first time I went in I sat on the bottom of the sea and I ... was fine. I had stitches in my eye, I paddled towards the shore, a wave passed beneath me and I noticed how it curved and the board tilted. The next day I went in thinking about what I'd learned. I started to paddle to the shore, a wave came and I ... Who lives on the crest of a wave? I do! And the crest of the wave is the loveliest and most incredible place, one that really fufils you as a person. What you feel as you come down is amazing.