05.04.09 - 17:47 -
19TH CENTURY. The Clock Tower is inside the castle.
More information
Most people who visit the Almanzora region have heard about the excellent quality of its hams, and few leave without buying some of it to take home. Many people go there to ramble or cycle on mountain bikes in the low mountain areas. And almost all of them head for the village of Serón, the best starting point for both the purchase of hams and the more energetic activity of rambling and cycling.
The Romans, who settled in this town because of its strategic importance as the gateway to the Almanzora Valley, named it Serius. The Moors arrived in the 8th century, and it was they who built the magnificent castle overlooking the valley. It fell to the Christian armies in 1489, becoming part of the kingdom of Castille. A rebellion against Felipe 11 by the Moriscos – the supposedly converted Moors – took place in 1568, and Aben Humeya was recognised as king. He built the castle there a year later, close to the village, but was soon forced to surrender. The same castle is the first great building that greets ramblers on routes through the small towns and villages along the Almanzora river.
A good place to begin this route is at the source of the river in Alcóntar, and it goes through villages like Serón, Tíjola, Armuña, Purchena, Olula del Río, Fines, Cantoria, Arboleas and Zurgena. The route can be made on foot, although not all the way, or by car or bicycle. Other villages in the region can also be visited on foot, these including Macael, Suflí, Albox, Somotín, Lúcar, Sierro and Urracal. And one of the most fascinating routes brings ramblers through the mining area of Las Menas in Serón. Those interested in astronomy can visit the observatory of Calar Alto, although care must be taken on the sharp curves on these mountain roads.
Due to the location of the region in the south-eastern part of the peninsula and to its proximity to Africa, it is rich in plant life found in the northern areas of the African continent. There are also some rare plants here which are native to central Europe. The reason for this lies in ancient geological changes, when glacier plants from more northern regions spread southwards to survive. When the ice melted, the plants disappeared in all areas except in these mountain valleys, where they survive to our day.
No trip to the area, considered to be the green heart of Almería, would be complete without a walk around the streets and plazas of the village. The Town Hall building is the first stop, but one must also see the old fountain and the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Anunciación. It was built in 1570 when the Infante don Juan de Austria captured Serón and distributed land and houses among people brought in from areas of Albacete and Murcia.
Eating well
Such activity requires good food and drink, and no meal in this village should be considered without sampling the local Serón ham. Other specialities of the area include stews, fried breadcrumbs and a dish that goes by the rather unappetising name of ‘andrajos’, which translates as ‘rags’ (leftovers), but which is truly delicious.
It is also worthwhile visiting neighbouring towns and villages while in the region, such as Armuña, whose origins go back to a Roman farmhouse later occupied by the Moors, who changed the name to Al-Muya. Suflí is another Moorish-sounding village, and here we can see the remains of a water mill built by the Moors. In front of it is the water source for the mill, making for one of the most pleasant walks in the area.
