At just a few kilometres along the A-374, which links Villaluenga del Rosario and Ubrique, the traveller reaches a beautiful white village that forms part of the Moorish history of Andalucía. This is Benaocaz, one of the 12 villages in the Villaluenga mountain range whose names ended in ‘ocaz,’ in reference to a Moorish family that once ruled here under the authority of Ronda. When the village was captured by the Christian armies in 1485, it became one of the seven villages of the Casa de Arcos. Legend has it that at that time, the women from Benaocaz handed over all their jewellery to the Catholic Monarchs as tribute, as the Catholic armies made their way towards Granada, the last Moorish stronghold in Spain to fall.

As soon as one reaches the village centre, one can see the traditional architecture of the region in the squares and fountains, the Iglesia Mayor church, situated in the plaza of the same name and built in the Renaissance style of the 16th century; the Town Hall, built in the 18th century baroque style with its columned façade topped by the village’s coat-of-arms, and the hermitage of El Calvario. This is located on a hill overlooking much of the province of Cadiz, offering magnificent views in many directions. Local people claim that on an exceptionally clear day, one can see as far as the Rock of Gibraltar from some parts of the municipality.

Medieval origin

One of the most interesting visits to be made in the village is to the Nazari barrio, which shows clear indications of its Moorish origins. It is one of the best conserved areas of Moorish town planning in the region, having fallen relatively late to the conquering Christians. It is presently made up of many ruined houses, most of them dating back many centuries, in the middle of narrow streets laid out in the Moorish style. Even the paving stones on the streets date from the time of the Moors in Spain.

Among the most attractive rambling routes in the immediate vicinity of the village is that leading from Benaocaz to Ubrique, on an ancient road of Roman origin. This used to be part of the principal road in the region, taking advantage of the natural pass named La Manga de Villaluenga. It would once have linked the population centres of Ocuri and Lacílbula, and to judge from archaeological remains discovered along the way in more recent times, it must have been an extremely important road in its day, we are told by historians.

Nature routes

Other interesting excursions can be made to the colourfully named Salto del Cabrero (Goat Leap), at more than 934 metres above sea level; the Cao peak, overlooking the locality of Benaocaz; the Casa Fardela, a rural house located in spectacular landscape and surrounded by the huge rock formations of the Sierra del Caillo; the astonishing Ojo del Moro (Moor’s Eye), from where one can enjoy magnificent views of the Adrión peak, Mount Higuerón and the ruins of the Tavizna Castle. This was known in Moorish times as the Castle of Aznalmara, which translates as the Fortress of Bitter Water and which was once one of the principal military constructions of the western frontier of the Moorish kingdom of Granada. It was built in a very strategic location, at 540 metres above sea level on a rocky outcrop over the valley of the Tavizna river. It is only some 500 metres from the river itself, beside the road from El Bosque to Ubrique.

To complete our travels, we should sample the excellent gastronomy of the area, where pork is king. There are also many game dishes on local menus, especially during the hunting season, such as venison, rabbit and partridge. There are many other local dishes as well, include traditional stews and soups, scrambled eggs with asparagus and many more, mostly cooked in olive oil and garlic. Another sign of the Moorish past of this region can be seen in the numerous sweet pastries made locally.